Starting early to make the most of our day, we boarded our bus with the large (bulletproof) windows and enjoyed watching the sun rise over Mt. Scopus, coloring the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem.
Driving North through the inheritance of the tribe of Benjamin, we pass through the impressive new neighborhood of Pisgat Ze'ev, with the Tel of “Givat Shaul” with the unfinished palace of King Hussein at its summit, and the ancient palace of King Saul buried within.
Continuing past new settlements like 'Adam” and “Ofra”, and sites from the Bible like Nahal Micmas where Jonathan slew the Philistines and saved Israel, we arrive at Shilo: a beautifully landscaped community, home to hundreds of families, built adjacent to the site of the Mishkan (Tabernacle), home of the Ark of the Covenant, the heart of Israel during the time of Joshua and the Judges. Here, after a short break for refreshments, we saw a model of the Mishkan, heard an on-site explanation of the archeological excavations and stood on the actual site while we read the Biblical verses of Hana and her son Samuel.
North now through the inheritance of Ephraim, we pass by “Rechalim”, and hear about the few young couples who stubbornly clung to this isolated but critical point, until the government finally gave in and recognized the settlement, and let them build real houses for their families.
Crossing the strategic junction of “Tapuach” (Ariel and Petach Tikva to your left, Ma'aleh Ephraim and the Jordan Valley to your right), we ride the narrow Micmitat Valley (border between the tribes of Ephraim and Menashe) to the community of Itamar. Here we were met by the Zimmerman family who gave us a short tour around the community, climaxing with a visit to their organic homestead. The explanation of the connection between the Torah and organic farming was interesting, but was overshadowed by actually being able to feed the fish in their enormous recirculating pond, and another surprise: on entering their greenhouse each visitor received a basket to fill with ripe red (organic!) strawberries.
Leaving our new friends at Itamar, we continued on the short, scenic drive to Elon Moreh, whose residents were the first Jews to return to live in the Shomron in 2,000 years! Lunch at the “Helkat haSadeh” Field School was an opportunity to meet with Rabbi Menachem Felix and Benny Katsover, founders of “Gush Emunim”, who shared with us memories of the past- connected with visions for the future.
Passing up through the tranquil streets of Elon Moreh, we pass by the “Tsel Harim” vineyard and herb farm (if we have time we will taste their organic teas), and enter the Mt. Kabir nature preserve. Leaving the bus we stand on the mountain top and see… what Abraham the Patriarch saw on his first day in Eretz Yisrael: Mt. Grizim opposite Mt. Eval (of the Blessings and the Curses), with the city of Shechem (and Joseph's Tomb) in the middle. Here we read the verses that Abraham heard at this spot from the Creator of the World: “To your descendants I will give this Land!”. We walked the trail around the peak, viewing the site of the Altar of Joshua (discovered by archeologists less than 20 years ago), saw the beautiful Tirzeh River Vally, sat in the shade of a 800 year old oak tree, and when the skies to the North cleared- found ourselves looking at an incredibly tall mountain peak in the far distance, covered with snow: Mt. Hermon!
Taking leave of Elon Moreh and turning South, we got a good close-up view of Mt. Grizim, with the excavations of the Samaritan Temple, and the new community of “Har Bracha”. Then we turned West on the brand new South Shechem bypass road- named the “Gilad Highway” after Gilad Zar z”l who gave his life to open this vital link to the Shomron mountain communities, and to protect the citizens that drive on it.
Passing under the lofty community of Yitzhar (well worth a visit on another day), we get a nice view (and explanation) of Kedumim- first of the renewed Shomron communities. As the day is fading, we climb up to “Mitspe Tsavai'im”, the hill top home of Moshe Zar, and are just in time to see an incredible sunset over the lowlands till the Mediterranean! Afterwards, Moshe and his family invite us in for a cup of coffee, over which he shared with us his vision that has led to a lifetime devoted to Redeeming the Land.
As we return, we all agree to try to find an additional day to see more sites in the Shomron!
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